Gold, opal & diamond
H 3.00 cm (1.18 in)
Origin: France, c. 1900
Marks: The shank with indistinct maker's mark & French eagle
Case: Ring Case
Ring Size |UK: R| |US: 8.75| |EU: 58.9| |Asia: 18|
Condition: Very good
Weight: 11.50 Grams
We are happy to size this ring larger or smaller should it be necessary. This will not affect it's value
A superb and iconic Art Nouveau portrayal of a Parisian goddess of the Demi-Monde. She has style roots going back to the Babylonian goddess Ishtar. The very revealing décolleté, flowing hair, bat wings and diamond Aurora head dress suggestively alludes to pagan pleasures and entertainments of the night, the practitioners only heading home with the dawn.
Fitted case, the silk marked:
'I. Lautier, Joaillier - Orfevre, Toulouse'
cf. Kunsthandwerk um 1900, Jugendstil, Art Nouveau, Modern Style, Nieuwe Kunst, catalogue of the Hessischen Landesmuseum, Darmstadt, 1965, catalogue number 143, p. 127.
The Paris Salons1895-1914, Jewellery, The Designers A-K, Alastair Duncan 1994, p. 94-107
The Belle Epoque of French Jewellery, 1850-1910, Thomas Heneage, 1990, p. 238-241
"Fauna the art of jewelry " by Patrick Mauries and Evelyne Posseme,
Thames & Hudson "In the West, bats have often been viewed in a negative light and associated with the Devil, but in ancient China the bat was a symbol of good fortune. In the late 19th century, the bat became associated with gay and lesbian circles, perhaps because it comes out at night, or because it possesses traits of a bird and a mammal combined, thus representing androgyny. There is little doubt this is how we should interpret the motif of these two pieces designed by Rene Lalique and given by the courtesan Liane de Pougy to her lover, the poet Natalie Clifford-Barney. The colour of the enamel and the moonstones was an allusion to Clifford-Barney's blue eyes".