Leopold Gautrait Art Nouveau Enamel and Gem-set Ring, ca. 1900

Rare Leopold Gautrait Art Nouveau Enamel and Gem-set Ring, ca. 1900

This exquisite Art Nouveau ring features the profile of a woman, wearing a peacock headdress, whose head feathers are depicted with emeralds. Furthermore the motif is swingfully studded with an old-mine cut diamond and further rose-cut diamonds. The remainder of the artwork is painted with window-enamelling in various flowingly changing colours. When held up to the light, the enamels appear as translucent windows stretched between the gold outlines of the design. This delicate enamelling technique, described as ‘plique-à-jour’ was known to Medieval and Renaissance goldsmiths, and underwent a revival in late 19th-century jewellery.

The maker, identified as Lucien or Léopold Gautrait (1865-1937), is known to have worked for the leading jewellery firms of Henri Vever, Boucheron and Léon Gariod in Paris. The known pieces by Gautrait are mainly pendants and brooches and often take inspiration from Lalique techniques. However, his compositions have a distinctive ornamental character and show a preference for swung contours into which functional pieces, such as loops and fastenings, are fitted. Gautrait was highly skilled at creating bird pieces, specifically peacocks, with lush, densely colored and glittering plumage made with enamel. The effect of finely chased gold and enamels is most obvious, while precious stones provide discreet accents. Work attributed to Gautrait is also notable for the finely sculpted female faces and exceptional luminous enamel work. Aside from the scattering of pieces that can be positively attributed to Gautrait, little else is known about the man or his work. Some of his pieces can be found in the Victoria & Albert Museum (London), Fitzwilliam Museum (Cambridge), Bavarian National Museum (Munich), Schmuckmuseum (Pforzheim) and others.

Ring size 6.5 (US), makers marks

Price on application

This object is eligible for a Certificate of BADA Provenance