Millegrain is a term often used in the jewellery trade to signify a fine beaded decoration applied to the outer edge of a ring or used to form the setting for a gemstone.
The term millegrain is French in origin and translates as “a thousand grains”, doubtless inspired by the abundance of tiny beads that form each design. It is said that the technique enhances the sparkle of a fine diamond, as the beaded edging prevents light reflected from the smooth edges of a ring detracting from the impact of the central stone.
Popularised in jewellery of the Edwardian and Art Deco periods, millegrain is believed to have originated in Southeast Asia with many fine ancient examples uncovered from excavation sites across the region.
In ancient designs, each minute bead was painstakingly hand crafted and soldered to the original ring by a master jeweller, taking many hours to complete a relatively simple decoration.
By the 19th century the motif would have been applied with a knurling tool, which is a handheld device with a small roller mounted at one end. The roller is equipped with the reverse pattern indented upon it so that when firmly applied to a surface the desired effect is impressed into the metal.
The increasing use of platinum in jewellery of the early 20th century enhanced the popularity of millegrain designs. This was because platinum is stronger and more malleable than silver, providing much more consistent and well-defined results.
The invention of the acetylene torch in 1903 gave jewellery designers far more freedom than traditional knurling tools, allowing them to create increasingly elaborate and innovative millegrain designs that proved hugely popular with Edwardian audiences.
The use of industrial tools also enabled jewellers to incorporate the technique into designs for the mass market, 
meaning millegrain was no longer preserved for handmade high-end jewellery. Consequently, the motif became a popular feature of wedding and engagements rings of the time and continue to be so today.
Click here to view examples of millegraining in jewellery currently available from BADA members.